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Exploring Melbourne’s Dark Underbelly On Foot

This walking tour offers a glimpse into the city’s darker side, from notorious criminals and haunted theatres to hidden laneways and opium dens.

Photo by Niko on Unsplash.

Melbourne, with its picturesque streets and vibrant culture, has a fascinating history that includes some darker chapters. From notorious criminals to infamous locations, the city’s past is full of intriguing tales that shed light on its more sinister side. This short walking tour will guide you through some of Melbourne’s most notorious spots, revealing the secrets and stories of its underbelly history.

Stop 1: Old Melbourne Gaol

Location: 377 Russell Street, Melbourne

Start your tour at the Old Melbourne Gaol, a historic landmark that once housed some of Australia’s most notorious criminals. Built in the mid-1800s, this gaol (jail) was the site of numerous executions, including that of the infamous bushranger, Ned Kelly. As you explore the eerie corridors and cells, you can learn about the grim conditions the prisoners endured and the stories of those who were once confined within its walls. The gaol’s dark past is palpable, with ghost tours available for those brave enough to delve deeper into its haunted history.

Highlight: Don’t miss the death mask of Ned Kelly and the hangman’s noose, which are on display as chilling reminders of the gaol’s grim history.

Stop 2: Chinatown and the Opium Dens

Location: Little Bourke Street, Melbourne

A short walk from the Old Melbourne Gaol will bring you to Melbourne’s Chinatown, one of the oldest Chinatowns in the world. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, this area was known for its opium dens, gambling houses, and illicit activities. As you stroll through the narrow laneways of Little Bourke Street, imagine the secretive world of the opium dens that thrived here, where Melbourne’s underbelly indulged in illicit substances and illegal gambling. Today, Chinatown is a vibrant part of the city’s culture, but traces of its shadowy past remain.

Highlight: Look out for historic buildings that once housed opium dens and gambling parlors. The Chinese Museum nearby provides additional insights into the area’s colorful history.

Photo supplied by The Princess Theatre.

Stop 3: The Princess Theatre and the Ghost of Federici

Location: 163 Spring Street, Melbourne

Continue your tour to the Princess Theatre, a grand Victorian-era building with a dark secret. The theatre is famous for being haunted by the ghost of Federici, an opera singer who died on stage in 1888 during a performance of Faust. Legend has it that Federici, whose real name was Frederick Baker, still roams the theatre, with numerous sightings reported over the years. The Princess Theatre’s opulent architecture contrasts with its eerie reputation, making it a must-see on this tour.

Highlight: Take a guided tour of the theatre if available, to hear more about the ghostly sightings and the theatre’s rich history.

Stop 4: Hosier Lane and the Gangs of Melbourne

Location: Hosier Lane, Melbourne

Next, make your way to Hosier Lane, now famous for its vibrant street art, but once a hotbed of gang activity in Melbourne’s early days. In the late 19th century, Melbourne’s laneways were the haunts of criminal gangs like the “Push” gangs, who were known for their violent brawls and illegal dealings. While today Hosier Lane is celebrated for its ever-changing canvas of street art, the remnants of its gritty past as a crime-ridden alley can still be felt.

Highlight: As you admire the street art, reflect on how Melbourne’s laneways have transformed from places of fear to spaces of creativity and expression.

Stop 5: The Mitre Tavern and the Whispering Walls

Location: 5 Bank Place, Melbourne

Conclude your walking tour at The Mitre Tavern, one of Melbourne’s oldest pubs, dating back to 1868. This historic tavern has seen its fair share of Melbourne’s shady past, rumored to have been a meeting place for criminals and politicians alike. The surrounding area, known as Bank Place, is filled with Victorian-era buildings that have witnessed Melbourne’s evolution from a fledgling city to a bustling metropolis. The “Whispering Walls” of the Mitre Tavern have absorbed countless secrets and stories over the years, adding to the sense of mystery that lingers in this secluded corner of the city.

Highlight: Enjoy a drink at the Mitre Tavern and soak in the atmosphere of one of Melbourne’s most historic pubs. Listen carefully, and you might just hear the whispers of Melbourne’s dark past.

Photo by Linda Xu.

Melbourne’s history is a rich tapestry of stories, some light and others dark. This walking tour offers a glimpse into the city’s darker side, from notorious criminals and haunted theatres to hidden laneways and opium dens. As you explore these sites, you’ll gain a deeper understanding of Melbourne’s complex past and the fascinating stories that continue to shape its identity today.

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